Chapter 9 - Western Australia - The Coral Coast

From 6 August 2011 

To    17 August 2011

Prologue

As we moved into the Gascoyne the landscape changed yet again. Wild flowers were ever present and small hills emerged (see photo) from the flat plains time and again. We even went through a couple of rolling hills where the automatic changed down a gear—not something that has happened much lately.

Another point of interest—some of the iron ore based rock in the Pilbara & Kimberley has such a high iron content that you can weld metal to it. Some of it was so hard we could not break it with a hammer. Phew.

Free Camp

As it was 550 odd km to Exmouth we stopped at one of the frequent free camp sites on the side of the road—this one on the banks of the (fairly dry) Yannarie river. There were 25 to 30 caravans populating the spacious site$ by night fall. Toilets were available—but no showers. We had a peaceful night then back on the road by 8:30 next morning.

Exmouth

We arrived in Exmouth—a fairly small town—then went exploring. Shirley quickly discovered that the local beaches have many pebbles (read small stones) in many and varied colours. In fact one beach is called “Pebble Beach”. Of course all good beaches (that have a marina) have a coffee shop and Shirley eventually found that one as well (10 minutes before closing time). So in we went and had a coffee.

Our first full day in Exmouth (8th August) was spent on a tour that did about 270 km around the Exmouth peninsula, around one hour on a boat cruise up/down a gorge, two swims in water adjacent to the Ningaloo reef, a feed of tiger prawns for lunch and one snorkel around coral and fish that are a part of the Ningaloo reef. The bus picked us up at 7:30 am and dropped us back at the camp site at 7pm. It was a great but long day—the scenery and water were wonderful.

To cap off a long day Darryl and Kay had bought some “Goldband Snapper” which Darryl cooked for dinner. It was superb. I supplied the “red”.

Our last full day in Exmouth was a restful day, with another dinner of “Goldband Snapper” again cooked by Darryl. This time Darryl supplied the red and I cooked the chips—seemed like a fair trade to me.

Coral Bay

We departed Exmouth and travelled though a community of termite mounds, some with more character than others (refer photo). You do see some amazing sights in this part of the world.


It was a mere 150 odd km to Coral Bay, and so we arrived in this wonderful little oasis around 10 am. After finding out that we could not check in until 11am we found the local bakery and purchased a couple of cappuccinos and a blueberry muffin. What a way to start the day!

So we then checked in, set up camp and soon took off for our two hour glass bottomed boat tour of the reef. And so another highlight of our trip eventuated—particularly when I got to go for a snorkel with my new $25 underwater camera. Keep watching wildlife shows on the ABC for my photos to appear. 

At least I am able to show you me in the crystal clear water with tshirt and Leyton Hewitt hat (for sun protection) - photo taken by Shirley. Note the cool board shorts. That water was 80 fathoms deep (or was that 80 inches?). I have edited out the sharks that were eyeing off my board shorts.

After our big effort around the reef I cooked curried sausages and rice for dinner—washed down with a 2004 Two Churches cabernet sauvignon.
Thursday was a relaxing day with some sight seeing and two bouts of snorkelling. I have been snorkelling four times in six days on the Ningaloo reef. Each experience was unbelievable. After snorkelling for an hour or so today I had to dive back into the water to help a 10 year old (approx) girl who was panicking because she could not see her parents. I swam the 20 metres (or so) and got to her at the same girl as her father. She was in about 3 metres of water.

Tonight we had snapper that Darryl caught this afternoon (see photo—the snapper was in there somewhere). It was to die for. We have had local fresh fish 3 nights out of the last 4. He was on a charter boat with 13 other guys – collectively they caught around 100 fish that were all over half a metre long.

Carnarvon

On Friday, with some sadness, we departed Coral Bay and headed for Carnarvon. Sadness, because we loved Coral Bay. We arrived early and then cruised around town, checking out the one mile jetty, the shearers museum and a few other historical sites. There are some new homes on the water here that must cost a packet.

The big surprise is that the caravan park we are staying in has a grass bowling green, on which there are matches 5 days each week. Next week there is a four day tournament. I spoke to one guy who has come from Albany on the south coast—one very long drive. Interesting rules though—casual dress, casual footwear, knowledge of game optional.

Kalbarri

We departed Carnarvon and had a 450 km drive to Kalbarri—the place of great memories from 15-16 years ago. It was a slow drive partly from the heavy cross winds and party because we were venturing into the popular wildflower country.  I have included a couple of samples.   The wind was even worst when we turned west and it became a head wind. However this was only for 60 km and we soon booked in, to learn that popular Tamworth musos were to entertain us tonight.

However the wind blew the musos away and we were left to ponder the wind and stare into our glasses.  Later that night (August 12th) we experienced our first rain since June 7th. Actually it was more like a mini cyclone with damage occurring to some caravan awnings and local shade sails.  It was so heavy it washed the car and the caravan.

I rose early on Sunday and went for a 90 minute walk, when I took the photo above—where the Murchison river joins the ocean.  It was a lazy day, culminating in dinner at Finley’s Fish BBQ—a place you have to see to believe.  Fully BYO, you need to take your own glasses. Napkins come from a roll of toilet paper.  However the fish is pretty good.

On Monday our principal activity was to visit a wildflower “farm/exhibition” where we saw some wonderful wildflowers as well as the spiny devil in the adjacent photo.  He (or she) was about 20 cm long.

Tuesday was just as casual with walks, coffee and bad weather being the “go”.  

However the sun did appear on regular occasions.

We finished the day with a “good bye” dinner with our good friends and travel mates of 10 or so weeks.

Finale

On the morning of 17th August we depart Kalbarri with some sadness, partly because we leave Kay, Fay, John & Darryl behind, and partly because turning west means that we are headed for home.  The others are heading south—at least for the moment.  The bright news is that we are about to traverse a section of WA that has an abundance of wild flowers, many of which are not seen outside WA.  This year is a good year for wild flowers (because of the rain) so the next report will have many wild flower pictures in it.
As we drive out of Kalbarri we will tick over 11,000 for the trip.  The average cost of diesel across that distance has been $1.60 per litre.
Please stay tuned for our next report.

Jump to the next chapter