Chapter 10 - Wildflowers and the Nullarbor

From  17 August 2011 

To    24 August 2011

  

The start of our trip home ………….

On Wednesday 17th August we drove about 495 km from Kalbarri to a place called Dalwallinu.  The land was a bit of an enigma as 95% of it looked barren and not capable of growing anything apart from the scrubby bushes that followed most of the road.  However the majority of the road travelled through grain and canola crops that most Aussie farmers would be proud of. Of course we were travelling through the famous WA wheat belt.  Where else in Australia can you drive for 500 km and constantly see grain crops?  I never seen so may grain storage facilities.

Of course the reason for this route was wild flowers, and plenty of those were seen.  The highlight was the wreath flower (Lechenaultia) which is not grown anywhere in the world outside the district of Mullewa - the number of plants to be seen at the moment is very small—and we saw three.  The above flower was about 400 mm across.

Also at Mullewa was probably the most magnificent small church that I have ever seen. The inside has to be seen to be believed.  My photo does not do it justice.

We stopped for the night at Dalwallinu and immediately went looking for our jeans—a commodity that had not been used for two months.

Day 2

This was our longest day of the trip, covering 522 in the day, making it 1017 in two days.  We passed through towns with names such as Bencubbin, Mukinbudin and Bullfinch—arriving at the recognised name of Coolgardie.

We were amazed to realise that the grain and canola crops stretch from Kalbarri to Southern Cross—a distance of around 800 km.  To put that into perspective it is 674 km from Horsham to Orbost.

We were also surprised to notice in the 370 km drive from Dalwallinu to Southern Cross we did not catch/overtake a vehicle or be overtaken by a vehicle.  It was a quiet road. 

The feature of the road between Southern Cross and Coolgardie was the presence of the numerous Gimlet trees (see photo on previous page).

Fraser Range Station

We had a casual day driving a mere 275 km to a place call Fraser Range which is a sheep station on the western edge of the Nullarbor.  At the moment the station is “destocked” and only has 80 sheep—and these arrived courtesy of an overturned sheep truck when the surviving sheep scarpered into the bush (as you would).

Fraser Range station is around 450,000 acres and was bought recently for around $700,000 with 7 people buying shares.  Food for thought there!  Free camel, kangaroo and rabbit meat.

Would you believe that the station manager complained about a lack of mosquitoes—because they need mozzies to spread mixamatosis to help keep the rabbits in check—of which there are heaps.

Nullarbor Golf Course

 

This is a famous golf course that stretches from Kalgoorlie to somewhere in South Australia—a distance of around 1350 km. While at Fraser Range station we had a relaxing afternoon and walked hole number 5 of the Nullarbor golf course.  Check out the photos below. Note the synthetic grass green in the background (RHS).  The synthetic grass tee is just behind Shirley.  I don’t think they ever move the hole.  The white markers on the right of the photo are the out-of-bounds markers.  The green slopes away from the tee and there is a creek 3-4 metres behind the green.  Not an easy hole.

On Saturday (I think) we checked out the 8th hole at Cocklebiddy—a 347 metre par 4, with a slight dog leg to the right (see photo).  The fine red arrow points to the green.  Note that the fairway (on the Nullarbor) is green and the rough is “lose ball” stuff.  Trees do not seem to be a factor on any of the holes that we have seen.  Memories of St Andrews!  Getting a time slot on the tee is also very easy.

I expect that there will be multiple lawn bowls bowling green by the next time I cross the Nullarbor.  Perhaps one rink per town for 25 towns so that I can play a 25 end pennant match—one end per town.

We met a couple at the Nullarbor Roadhouse who were driving from Melbourne to Kalgoorlie (staying at motels and caravan parks) to meet friends so that the four of them could play the 18 holes on the way home back to Melbourne—the sole reason for the trip.  A long drive for 18 holes of golf.

Nullarbor

Needless to say this is a famous part of the world, let alone Australia.  After plenty of recent rain it is an absolute picture.  It looks better than plenty of Victoria (unless the latter has improved in the last 3 months).  The roads are still straight with the longest section being a straight 145 km.  It is even longer when you have a head wind.  The two characters to the right (Nullarbor residents) I have named Chris 1 and Chris 2 as Shirley had them both eating out of her hand.  The offering was bits of the cone of a Drumstick ice-cream.  Like me, they have a serious look on their face—and not much hair on the top of their head. 

The parrot below I called Chris 3 as he was up early—like me.

As you can tell already, birds on the Nullarbor get common names.

What can I say—an amazing part of our amazing country.  If you do not know the derivation of the word “Nullarbor” please look it up as I will be asking you all.

Please ponder the adjacent sunset photo (I am really into sunset and sunrise photos) and see if you can work out where the aboriginal flag cam from.

Of course we visited the beautiful cliffs that make up the Great Australian Bight—but I cannot fit every photo in.

Whales & Friends

We departed the Nullarbor Roadhouse caravan park and drove 22 km to a place called “Head of Bight” where there are currently an estimated 148 whales.  We saw maybe 20 or 30, mostly Mums with calves.  They are like a pelican—big, slow and graceful.  The water was so clear you could see most of each animal, even though 75% was under water.  It’s a pity my camera did not have the same eye sight.

We did however get a better photo of another local resident—this one playing Russian roulette with road trains and 50 seater buses.  Apart from birds these critters seemed to be the most common form of life on the Nullarbor.  This little guy was about 30 cm in length and very protective of his space in the middle of the main Melbourne to Perth road.

Ceduna

Arriving in Ceduna is like being given a cold beer after having dug a 100 metre trench in hard clay on a hot day.  It is such a relief after such a big chore—such as driving the Nullarbor with a strong head and side wind.  Our caravan site overlooked the bay—where the sun sets, and was 5 minute walk from the local hotel that sells the best freshly cooked seafood in town.  So in we settled for 2 nights after driving 2410 km in 6 days.

We dined at the hotel and had superb whiting and snapper and watched yet another wonderful sunset.

I was up at dawn and watched yet another sunrise.  Then we had a casual day. 

We first went to visit a lady called Val who manages the local animal refuge.  She is mainly self funded and explained and displayed her current residents who consist of two baby wombats, two delinquent wombats, three adult wombats, an emu chick, kangaroo joey, adult kangaroos, adult wallabies, dragon, he and she lizards, a falcon with a crook wing, two lambs, pet cat and a pet corella.  She has lots of plans that are too lengthy to be stated here—but if you are in Ceduna she is well worth a visit.

We finished the cultural part of our Ceduna visit with a visit to the local meteorological station where we met another local character.   The station now provides more data, more accurately, on a more regular basis, with one person—that took four people not many years ago.  He assured me that I would get a tail wind into Adelaide.

We returned to the camp site, then sat down with a dozen fresh oysters and a drink, to be gradually greeted by about 25 bikers who are part of the “Black Dog” tour.  

They are all within about 30 metres of the back of our caravan and are about half of the WA contingent of riders who are riding to Alice Springs as an Australia wide push to raise the profile of depression in men.  I got depressed that I was not riding with them.  They meet the eastern states guys in Port Augusta tomorrow.  About 250 riders in total.

We are on the final run home now.  Please stay tuned for our next report—which will be sent from Eltham.

 

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