Chapter 5 - Northern Territory

From 23 June 2011 

To    29 June 2011 

Now we are in the Northern Territory.  We departed Mt Isa this morning and travelled around 450 km to a place called Barkly Homestead, which is sort of in the middle of nowhere – about 200 km from the nearest town.  It is a cattle station around 465,000 acres where cattle are mustered by helicopter.  They own a fuel stop/eatery/bar/camp ground in the guise of roadhouse with shady trees and powered sites around the back.  Diesel was $1.96 per litre after being $1.49 in Mt Isa this morning. A stubby of beer was $5.60, and a splice icy pole was $4.20.  The majority of the road was excellent except for about 10 km when we crossed the NT border.  We also passed though Camooweal where the local store owners are animal conversationalists.  So Shirley got to cuddle a 5 months old red kangaroo joey.

It was very pleasant having a “coldie” with a local in the bar.  Then the six of us (three couples, in case I have not mentioned before) demolished two big boxes of hot cooked chips – which had so much salt we were forced to quench our thirst with the obvious Outback drink.

 
The army must be on the move as at Barkly Homestead we saw the first of about 70 army vehicles (small, big & huge) to pass is heading somewhere east.  We had a stroke of luck here as all three of us bought diesel from the same place who was unknowingly serving diesel with water.  We know of four people who had a problem - one with a new Mercedes - one in a rented motor home - another two in Land Cruisers.  THese people bought diesel BEFORE and AFTER us.  Phew. 

On Wednesday 22^nd we drove a mere 330 km to Renner Springs, which is a roadhouse not a town.  So we started at a cattle station, drove 330 km, never went through a town, and stopped at a roadhouse.  For the second night in a row we stopped at a roadhouse-type establishment where the main feature was a rustic outback bar.  For the second time this trip I cooked scones for the troops.  They were soon demolished.  Apart from being attacked by five over zealous geese (who probably wanted to eat my camera) the evening was quiet, pleasant and uneventful.  This was the first night since leaving Melbourne where we had absolutely no mobile reception.  Diesel at Renner Springs was $2.05 per litre but our capacity allowed us to look and smile – but not purchase.  In fact once we left Camooweal on the border it was another 600 or 700 km before we saw a town –just the odd roadhouse – and some of them were odd.

Just before Renner Springs we accidently happened onto a place called Newcastle Waters which was about 4 km off the highway.  This town (not even a pub) is famous as a watering hole for the droving teams many years ago.  Apart from a school about the only thing here is a tribute statue to drovers and a stack of water with zillions of waterbirds.  Great photo opportunity.

The roads are so straight in this neck of the woods that there are signs with arrows to indicate the occasional turn – in case you are in cruise control with a coffee and biscuits in hand.  If we had not been towing the van we could have taken all corners at the permissible speed limit (i.e. 130 km).

Then came one of the highlights of the trip so far – Daly Waters.  We camped for $24 and then surveyed the pub.  It was to be seen to be believed.  The “Beef & Barra” (at $27.50) has to be tasted to believed.  We did not even look to see what else was on the menu.  The entertainment was superb.  Mere words are not good enough to describe this place.  It is not even on the main road (i.e. Stuart Highway) – although only a few km off it.  I was up before dawn to go for a walk down a local historic track (all about John Stuart the explorer).

Next stop was Mataranka and the hot springs – about 30 degrees I think.  We relaxed here for two days, about 300 metres from the hot springs.  One of the additional highlights here was the water birds and the friendly wallabies – one of whom had a ‘big’ joey in her pouch.  It was now starting to get warm with the days into the mid twenties but still cool nights.  Shirley and I visited the Mataranka Saturday market and spent an entire 45 secnods there – three stalls with nothing of interest.

I continue to be fascinated by the huge range of water birds and windmills – in a part of the country that is renowned for being dry.  I have fluked some good (for me) photos of birds – even a kookaburra – different to the type seen in Victoria.

Next stop was Katherine on Sunday 26^th June.  It was fairly hot as we pulled into a grassy and shady caravan park.  Before long I had met a fellow lawn bowler who bowls for Eltham.  Bob clued me up on where the best spot for beer was in Katherine.  This action was duly taken and product was purchased.  We also caught up with my sister and her husband (Lynn & Daryl) who drove down from Darwin to have an evening with us – and very enjoyable it was as well.

On Tuesday (28^th I think) we headed off 300 (of 500) km towards Kununurra and stopped at a small place called Timber Creek.  It was a dry as a bone but we had lovely grassy sites.  This area is popular for its Barra fishing and fresh water crays.  We have also started to see Kimberley type landscape with the flat planes seemingly behind us.  The following is a sample of the sights.

 
  We will have covered about 4800 km by the time we cross the border into WA tomorrow.  With a bit of luck we will get to the WA border before we leave Timber Creek (with the 90 minute clock change.  It was not starting to get hotter with days in the low 30s and nights getting warmer.  Apart from one tank of diesel at $1.97 per litre the most we have paid is $1.56.  But lets wait and see what happens up the track.

Please note the photos of our travelling clan (great haircuts on the blokes):
Chris, Darryl, John and Fay, Shirley & Kay

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